In Harmony | Education Series

Weed Grasses in Your Lawn

noreply@blogger.com (scott) — Mon, 23 Feb 2009 23:51:00 +0000

Here’s the bad news.

Completely eliminating weed grasses in your lawn is unrealistic. There is no easy way to prevent weed grasses from establishing in the lawn.

And once weed grasses are established, there is no easy way to remove them. With broadleaf weeds, there are selective herbicides that can be used to kill the offending weeds without killing the surrounding grass. Unfortunately, there are no chemical controls that distinguish between desirable turf grasses and weed grasses.

What you can do

Remove invasive grasses early before they get established. A good lawn can be preserved with just a few minutes a week of hand pulling small new seedlings.
Shade the root zone by mowing higher. This will help reduce weed seed germination (weeds need sunlight to germinate).
Be realistic: lawns won’t grow well in areas that are overly wet, dry or shady. If you don’t want weeds to establish, plant a groundcover that will do well in those areas.
If weed grasses have become large, you can dig them out, ﬁll in the holes and reseed the area.
A last resort for lawns with very large patches or numbers of weed grasses: treat with a non-selective herbicide. This will kill all grasses, not just weed grasses. It will then be necessary to reseed the entire area.
Call In Harmony for assistance. Our technicians can suggest cultural practices to improve the health of your lawn and increase its resistance to invasion by weed grasses.

What In Harmony can do

Apply an organic fertilizer. A good fertilization program helps keep colors even so weed grasses are not as apparent.
Aerate your lawn to help keep it healthy.
Overseed as necessary to ﬁll in weak spots and help lawn color.

References

Common-Sense Pest Control: Least-toxic Solutions for Your Home, Garden, Pets and Community. Olkowski, W., Daar, S., and Olkowski, H. The Taunton Press, Newtown, Connecticut. 1996.
Ortho’s All About Lawns. Meredith Books. Des Moines, Iowa. 1999.

Sea Kelp

noreply@blogger.com (scott) — Mon, 16 Feb 2009 23:42:00 +0000

In Harmony often uses natural sea kelp or sea kelp extract to supplement our liquid product applications.

Sea kelp improves growth and color of plants and enhances flowering. It does this by providing:

Trace elements, often deficient in our garden soils
Potassium, an essential plant nutrient
Plant growth regulators

Kelp contains an exceptional concentration of plant growth regulators, the plant equivalent of animal hormones. Plant growth regulators influence all aspects of plant growth, including seed germination, cell division and cell growth.

One plant growth regulator found in sea kelp, cytokinin, is particularly beneficial. Cytokinins stimulate cell division and elongation, which play a number of crucial roles in promoting plant health:

Promote healthier leaves
Help repair plant wounds quickly, limiting the entry of pests and disease
Create stronger, more extensive root systems
Retard plant aging
Stimulate the formation of energy capturing structures
Enhance flowering in some species

Sea kelp is our best concentrated source of cytokinins. In our landscapes, plants are often struggling because of stressful growing conditions. Plant growth regulators such as cytokinin will help your plants to thrive.

References

Kelp Studies—Scientifi c and Technical Support: Biostimulants. Wallace, A. Wallace Laboratories. http://www.organa. cc/Studies/Kelp_Studies-Biostimulants.html. December 7, 2000.
Plant Nutrition from the Sea: Marine Products Can Be Used to Supplement Soil Nutrients. Baker, B. Farmer to Farmer. http://www.namkelp.com/nutrition.html
Plant Physiology, 4th Ed. Devlin, R.M. and Witham, F.H. Wadsworth Publishing Company. Belmont, California. 1983.

Moles Creating Holes in your Lawn?

noreply@blogger.com (scott) — Mon, 09 Feb 2009 23:29:00 +0000

Moles are part of a healthy ecological system.

They indicate that the soil is strong, and that beneficial insects and organisms are present. But if you’re like most home owners, you’d rather not have them burrowing under your yard or garden.

There’s a lot of debate about the best methods to get rid of these clever, persistent pests. Ideas in vogue range from castor-oil/liquid detergent solutions and trapping to using the noise of a lawn mower to scare them away.

There are seven varieties of moles in the Pacific Northwest. Moles, which eat worms, slugs and soil insects, play an important ecological role. They dig tunnels underground, which create channels for air and water to move through the soil. The problem is that the tunnels create weak spots and holes in a lawn. The moles also push mounds of soil to the surface.

What you can do

We think the best solution is to tolerate moles when possible, since they play such a beneficial role in the ecology.
You can stamp down the mounds moles make in your lawn and reseed them.
If you must get rid of moles, the most effective way we know is trapping. We don’t offer this service ourselves, but there some companies in the area that specialize in trapping moles. A few good companies are Mole In One (425.823.4094), Mole Patrol (425.483.8894) and The Mole Guy (425.483.1775).
If you want to do trapping yourself, the best time is in the early spring when the first burrows are seen, or after the first fall rains. Trapping in the early spring can eliminate pregnant females, thus reducing the possibility of having to contend with a family of moles.
Traps should be set in active burrows (you can tell by rolling or tramping down the ridges and then observing which ones are raised again). If a trap is not sprung in two days, move it to another location.
Don’t use pesticides, which can harm other wildlife, pets and children as well.
Use a physical barrier. If you know the moles are coming from a certain area, dig a trench and insert bamboo cloth or flattened metal trenches. The barrier should be at least 6-12 inches deep.

Mycorrhizal Fungi

noreply@blogger.com (scott) — Mon, 02 Feb 2009 23:38:00 +0000

In Harmony uses mycorrhizal fungi, in combination with growth-promoting bacteria, to promote soil health.

Soils in natural settings contain large numbers of beneficial organisms, such as bacteria and fungi. In many city landscapes, however, soils are disturbed and compacted, and these beneficial organisms have been reduced or eliminated.

Recent research has shown that a beneficial fungus, mycorrhiza, is invaluable when it forms a symbiotic relationship with plant roots in the soil. These fungi colonize the plant roots and extend the root system into the surrounding soil. In healthy soil, there may be several miles of mycorrhizal filaments in a teaspoon of soil. As the mycorrhizae grow within the soil profile, they will help protect your plants and promote plant health.

The plant’s ability to take in water and nutrients rises dramatically when mycorrhizal fungi are present in the soil. Mycorrhizae also suppress diseases and pathogens in the soil, and they improve soil structure.

Problems with Fruit Trees

noreply@blogger.com (scott) — Mon, 26 Jan 2009 23:27:00 +0000

Growing fruit trees in western Washington can be tough.

Fruit grows and ripens best when exposed to warmth and sun. Our summers are often cool and cloudy, making it difficult for fruit to ripen properly and increasing the chance of disease. Several insects also prey on fruit trees in our area. Fruit trees need to be maintained correctly. They require regular pruning for health, strength and yield.

What you can do

Buy resistant varieties. WSU Extension and others have tested fruit trees and found varieties that are less prone to disease. Visit our web site for sources.
Save yourself a headache! Remove plants that are prone to problems.
Hire a certified arborist, or visit Plant Amnesty’s web site to learn about proper pruning techniques. Our web site has a link.
Sanitation is very important to reduce disease problems. Rake up and dispose of fallen leaves. Do not compost leaves from diseased trees.

What In Harmony can do

Apply pyrethrins, natural insecticides produced by certain species of chrysanthemums.
Apply neem oil. Neem is a botanical insecticide, miticide and fungicide treatment derived from the seeds of the neem tree.
Apply horticultural oil, a highly refined petroleum oil which is safe and has limited effects on beneficial insects.
Apply lime sulphur, a safe, least toxic control for a variety of diseases.
Apply a fungicide. We do this only if absolutely necessary and only in very limited amounts.

Diseases	Identification
Powdery mildew	Leaves and stems erupt in a fuzzy, whitish coating that esembles white powder.
Fire blight/brown rot	Look for sudden wilting and browning of flower parts. Fruit shows soft, brown spots.
Shot hole	Fruit lesions are light brown with dark purple margins.
Peach leaf curl	New leaves have a puckered texture with reddish spots.
Apple scab	Fruit has brown, velvety or corky surface lesions. Leaves have similar spots.
Insects	Identification
Apple maggot	Look for larva tunnels in fruit. Adult flies are about ¼ inch long, with a black abdomen and white bands.
Codling moth	Larvae make entry holes on the side of apples. Adult moths are speckled gray-brown and slightly larger than a house fly.
Cherry bark tortrix	Reddish-brown frass tubes protrude from tree bark. Adult moths are colorful, with light orange, gray and black forewings.
Scale	Adults live under a protective coating, which appear as raised bumps on bark. Bumps may be oval, circular or white masses.

Compost Tea

noreply@blogger.com (scott) — Mon, 19 Jan 2009 20:15:00 +0000

For as long as people have recognized the benefit of using compost, people have made compost tea.

Traditionally, compost tea has been produced by putting finished compost into a barrel with water and letting it sit for many days until the liquid turns a dark brown. The finished product is then poured on and around the garden plants, adding valuable humic acid.

Over the past several years, researchers have found that aerating the compost tea while it is brewing increases its benefits to plants and soil. Adding air dramatically increases the number of beneficial microbes present in the tea, growing billions of microbes within hours. In Harmony uses a state-of-the-art machine to produce our compost tea.

When these microbes are applied to soils, their benefits are many. They improve plant growth and vigor by helping it take in nutrients and store food. Healthy plants are better able to resist diseases. They help break down compacted soils, allowing more air and root spaces for plants.

Some research has shown compost tea to be effective at suppressing plant diseases such as Phytophthora, Pithium and Fusarium. Compost tea microbes can suppress diseases by increasing resistance to pathogens, antagonizing and competing with pathogens on leaf surfaces, and inhibiting pathogen spores.

What In Harmony can do

Do a foliar and/or soil soak with compost tea to improve plant health and vitality.

What you can do

There is no extra care needed for this application. Sit back and relax in your garden with a cool drink and enjoy your healthy plants.

References

Benefi ts of organic teas: A review of the research literature. Organic Farming Research Foundation Information Bulletin, Winter 2001, Number 9.
Evaluating the benefi ts of compost teas to the small market grower. Greenbook 2001, Energy and Sustainable Agriculture Program, Minnesota Department of Agriculture.

Plant Nutrients

noreply@blogger.com (scott) — Mon, 12 Jan 2009 20:26:00 +0000

Plants require 16 nutrients to grow.

They get carbon, hydrogen and oxygen from air and water. Healthy soils provide the other 13 essential nutrients. However, some soils are deficient or cannot supply enough nutrients for plants, such as turf grasses, with high nutrient requirements. In these cases, fertilizers are needed to maintain optimum plant health. Plant nutrients are divided into categories according to the amounts needed.

What In Harmony does

For our tree and shrub customers, we follow a balanced fertilizer program that delivers all of the essential nutrients. We observe plants to determine which nutrients may be deficient and will apply extra fertilizer as needed. When symptoms do not pinpoint a particular nutrient deficiency, we may suggest a tissue or soil sample.

We monitor plant health so we can supply only the fertilizer necessary, thus keeping excess nutrients out of our water supply. We use a complete array of organic fertilizers to meet your plantsí nutritional needs while protecting our environment.

Here are some of the fertilizers we use:

Organic plant fertilizer with mycorrhizae.
Azomite, an organic product, contains all the essential minerals and micronutrients in a balanced ratio. It will replenish the soil, correct mineral defi ciencies and boost plantsí immune system.
Supertrace, a multi-mineral liquid organic fertilizer containing essential micronutrients.

Primary Nutrients	Needed in largest amounts.
Nitrogen (N)	Promotes rapid growth, increases leaf size and quality, promotes seed and fruit development.
Phosphorus (P)	Enhances germination and growth of seeds, stimulates blooming and root growth.
Potassium (K)	Promotes vigor, disease resistance and sturdy growth.
Secondary Nutrients	Needed in somewhat smaller amounts than primary nutrients.
Calcium (Ca)	Major constituent of cell walls. Important for root growth.
Magnesium (Mg)	Vital to chlorophyll production. Aids enzyme reactions needed for growth.
Sulfur (S)	Improves root growth and plant growth and seed production.
Micronutrients	Needed in relatively small (trace) amounts.
Boron (B)	Aids production and transport of sugars and water intake by cells.
Chlorine (Cl)	Aids plant metabolism and photosynthesis.
Copper (Cu)	Necessary for the production of proteins, important for vreproduction.
Iron (Fe)	Essential for formation of chlorophyll and for oxygen transfer.
Manganese (Mn)	Helps nitrogen assimilation and breakdown of carbohydrates.
Molybdenum (Mo)	Helps in the use of nitrogen and formation of root nodules.
Zinc (Zn)	Activates enzymes which regulate plant growth, helps protein production.

References

How Fertilizers and Plant Nutrients Affect Groundwater Quality. Stevens, R.G., Sullivan, D.M., and Cogger, C.G. Washington State University Cooperative Extension. http://www.cahe.wsu. edu/infopub/eb1722/ebg1722.html.

Time to Think About Garden Fertilizers. Robson, M. Washington State University Cooperative Extension. http://gardening.wsu. edu/column/02-28-99.html. December 7, 2000.

Plant Nutrients. Smith, Rod. http://www.rodsgarden.50megs. com/plantnutrients.htm.

Essential Plant Nutrients: Their Presence in North Carolina Soils and Role in Plant Nutrition. Tucker, M. Ray. http://www.ncagr. com/agronomi/essential.htm

Deep Root Feeding

noreply@blogger.com (scott) — Mon, 05 Jan 2009 20:31:00 +0000

Even after trees and shrubs have dropped their leaves and seemingly stopped growing, roots continue to grow.

Soil temperatures are still warm enough for root growth through mid-winter.

What In Harmony can do

Deep root feeding is part of In Harmonyís natural plant care program. In the winter we may deep root feed your landscape plants with a mixture of nutrients and a bio-stimulant to promote root growth and improve plant nutrition.

We inject a liquid formula into the soil surrounding plants to deliver nutrients directly to plant root systems. This encourages root cell division and repair. Any remaining nutrients will be available for renewed shoot growth in the spring.

Most of the nutrients in fertilizers applied at the surface take a long time to reach the roots of plants. The benefit of deep root feeding is that all the nutrients can immediately be used by the tree or shrub being fed.

Deep root feeding encourages stronger root systems and improves nutrient levels. This produces tougher, more vigorous plants to better resist insect pests and diseases. Deep root feeding with organic products is another way In Harmony helps keep your plants healthy, happy and beautiful.

Pesticides and Salmon

noreply@blogger.com (Rachel) — Mon, 08 Dec 2008 18:38:00 +0000

Pesticides may harm endangered salmon.

Several species of salmon on the West Coast have been listed as threatened under the Endangered Species Act. Pesticides are one of many threats to the survival of these iconic fish.

Fish kills from pesticides are, fortunately, rare. However, scientists have found that low levels of pesticides can affect salmon biology and ultimately affect the survival of the species.

Salmon have a very sensitive sense of smell. Relatively low concentrations of pesticides can interfere with their ability to smell, which may affect their behavior in a number of ways. Examples include altering the ability to feed and to avoid predators, disrupting schooling behavior, and inhibiting normal migration.

Salmon use smell to detect predators by sensing "danger" pheromones given off by other fish. When salmon sense this signal, they tend to stop moving and rest, making them less visible to a predator. A study done by scientists in Seattle found that juvenile salmon exposed to a pesticide at relatively low concentrations were less able to react to this signal. They continued to move around and feed rather than stop and hide.

Salmon are also thought to use smell to find the proper streams for spawning. Pesticides and other pollutants may interfere with this process.

Other effects on salmon from pesticides may include:

Reduced food sources: Pesticides can reduce the populations of salmon food sources (other aquatic life such as insects), thus affecting the overall health of salmon populations.

Immune system disruption: Some studies have found that exposure to relatively low concentrations of pesticides can disrupt the immune systems of salmon.

Threat to reproduction: Pesticides at low concentrations may act as mimics or blockers of sex hormones, disrupting normal sexual development.

References

Diminishing returns: Salmon decline and pesticides. Ewing, Richard D. Oregon Pesticide Education Network, 1999. www. pesticide.org/salpest.pdf.

Scholz, N.L., Truelove. N. K., et al. Diazinon disrupts antipredator and homing behaviors in chinook salmon (Oncorhynchus tshawytscha). Canadian Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences (2001): 57.

Pesticides and Streams

noreply@blogger.com (Rachel) — Mon, 01 Dec 2008 19:07:00 +0000

Pesticides have been found in local streams at levels high enough to harm salmon and other aquatic life. Many of the pesticides found are those commonly used by homeowners on lawns and gardens.

A study in King County in 1999 compared pesticides in streams with retail sales of pesticides. Twelve sites were sampled on 10 streams in urban watersheds during spring rainstorms. Sampling was done during storms because pesticide runoff is greatest during storms, so scientists are more likely to find pesticides at levels of ecological concern.

Scientists found 23 pesticides in the streams. Concentrations of five pesticides exceeded limits to protect aquatic life: the insecticides carbaryl, chlorpyrifos (Dursban), diazinon, malathion and lindane. The first four are organophosphate (OP) insecticides, which affect the nervous system.

At the time of the study, chlorpyrifos and diazinon were two of the most widely used garden insecticides. The US Environmental Protection Agency banned both for home use in 2003 because of concerns about its effects on human health, especially the nervous system.

Lindane is an organochlorine, an older class of pesticides that includes DDT. Organochlorines are long-lived in the environment.

Pesticides used on lawns and gardens have an impact on urban streams. The pesticides found in streams were compared with pesticides sold at 10 large home and garden stores such as Home Depot and Lowe’s. The four pesticides with the highest sales were found at all 12 stream sites: diazinon and the herbicides MCPP, 2,4-D and dichlobenil (Casoron). MCPP and 2,4-D are used in many weed-and-feed products. Residents also bought and applied the four OP pesticides that exceeded levels set to protect aquatic life.

Many pesticides found in urban streams had no retail sales. Almost half of the pesticides found were not sold in the home and garden stores. These pesticides are likely being applied to nonresidential areas such as rights-of-way, parks and recreational areas.

References

Pesticides detected in urban streams during rainstorms and relations to retail sales of pesticides in King County, Washington. http://wa.water.usgs.gov/pubs/fs/fs.097-99/ fs.097-99.pdf.

Pesticides and Risks

noreply@blogger.com (Rachel) — Mon, 24 Nov 2008 18:47:00 +0000

Children are at high risk from exposure to pesticides and other toxic chemicals.

They are more sensitive to exposure than adults, and they are more likely to be exposed because they play on the lawn and ground. Their bodies are rapidly growing and developing, which means any exposure has more severe consequences than it would in adults.

Pesticide poisoning is a potential problem, especially with small children. In 2005, poison centers in the United States responded to 101,745 poisoning incidents related to pesticides. Of those, 48 percent (49,232) involved children under the age of six.

Pesticides may be tracked into the home and lodge in carpets, where toddlers who play on the floor and put their hands in their mouths may be exposed. Researchers study collected samples of 2,4-D, a commonly used lawn herbicide, on indoor surfaces such as floors, tables and countertops. The herbicide was tracked into the home by the dog and the homeowner. Exposure levels for young children were 10 times higher after 2,4-D was applied to the lawn.

Researchers have found higher rates of cancer— such as leukemia, brain tumors and lymphoma—in children living in homes where pesticides are used in the home and/or yard. Studies found that increased cancer risks were higher for children than for adults exposed to pesticides.

Locally, pesticides have been found in toddlers. University of Washington researchers tested 110 children, aged 2-5 years, for common garden insecticides. All but one of the children tested had pesticides in their urine. Children had significantly higher levels of pesticides if they lived in a home where garden pesticides were used. The researchers recommended that, where possible, use of these pesticides "should be avoided in areas where children are likely to play." .

References

2005 annual report of the American Association of Poison Control Centers’ National Poisoning and Exposure Database. www.aapcc.org.

Distribution of 2,4-D in air and on surfaces inside residences after lawn applications: Comparing exposure estimates from various media for young children. Nishioka, M. G., et al. Environmental Health Perspectives (2001): 1185. www. ehponline.org/members/2001/109p1185-1191nishioka/ nishioka-full.html

Biological monitoring survey of organophosphorus pesticide exposure among pre-school children in the Seattle Metropolitan area. Lu, C., et al. Environmental Health Perspectives (2001): 109. www.ehponline.org/ members/2001/109p299-303lu/lu-full.html

Sanitation

noreply@blogger.com (Rachel) — Mon, 17 Nov 2008 20:18:00 +0000

Like people, plants need a healthy environment.

To reduce our chances of becoming ill, we get plenty of fresh air and clean our homes to remove bugs and bacteria. Yet we neglect our plants by leaving fruit, fallen leaves, weeds, dead branches, even dead plants in our gardens!

Fruit and fallen leaves are ideal locations for pests and diseases to harbor. Weeds and dense vegetation under trees and shrubs provide hiding places for pests and reduce airflow, increasing humidity and the likelihood of fungal diseases. Good sanitation is important for optimum plant health.

What you can do

Here are a few simple steps to help reduce both the severity of infections and continuing infestation by pests and diseases.

Remove damaged and diseased branches.
Prune plants for better air circulation. For dense plants or plants with persistent foliar fungal diseases, winter is a good time to do some thinning. Call In Harmony if you'd like us to prune for you.
Keep areas under trees clean. Keep the stem free of piled mulch, weeds or other competing plants. Keep weeds and grass cut short under the tree canopy.
Remove dead plants as soon as possible. A dead plant provides a home for insects that may spread diseases to other plants.
Rake leaves. Because of the high rate of infection in leaves of fruit trees, ornamental cherries, ornamental plums and dogwoods, we do not recommend composting these leaves. Put them in yard waste bins for pickup. The leaves of most other plants make good additions to your compost.

Fruit trees

Several additional steps are necessary to reduce disease and pest problems in fruit trees.
Remove diseased flowers that remain on the tree after fruit set.
Remove early fallen fruit and thin remaining fruit if necessary. Dispose of fruit.
After harvest, remove remaining fruit from tree and ground.
If you have any questions about sanitation or whether your leaves are suitable for compost, call In Harmony.

References

Arboriculture: Integrated Management of Landscape Trees, Shrubs, and Vines. Harris, R. W. Prentice Hall, Inc. New Jersey. 1992.
The Simple Act of Planting a Tree: A Citizen Forester's Guide to Healing Your Neighborhood, Your City, and Your World. Lipkis, Andy, 1990.

Tree Staking

noreply@blogger.com (Rachel) — Mon, 10 Nov 2008 17:45:00 +0000

Tree staking is one of the most misunderstood of garden tasks because it can do more harm than good.

Compared to un-staked trees, staked trees have thinner trunks at the base, smaller root systems, and increased risk of damage from rubbing and wind damage. Studies have shown that trees establish more quickly and develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not staked at the time of planting.

Use protective stakes only where lawn mower damage, vandalism or windy conditions are concerns.

Follow these tips to minimize damage to your tree:

Stake trees loosely. In order for roots and stems to develop properly, the tree must be allowed to move. A tree should never be staked with a single stake closely tied to the stem at several points. This weakens the stem significantly.

Prevent stems from rubbing on the stakes. Use two stakes on opposite sides of the tree perpendicular to the prevailing wind direction.

Minimize damage to tree bark during tying. Use flexible material with a broad, smooth surface. Uncovered wire or rope quickly damages tree stems. Wire covered by sections of garden hose or specially made plant ties (available at your local nursery) work well. When tying, use a figure eight pattern so the tie material can cushion any contact with the stake.

The lower the stake is, the better. When selecting the tie height, remember that the object is to support the tree so it doesn’t fall over, not to prevent it from blowing in the wind. Tying it loosely lower on the stem allows the tree to sway, reducing the likelihood of the tree snapping in high winds.

Thin trees if necessary. Some trees carry too much weight in the upper portion or are so thick as to risk damage from wind. These trees can be judiciously thinned to allow wind to pass through them. Call us for pruning estimates.

Remove stakes as soon as possible. Most plants should stand without support after six to 18 months. Trees that require longer are experiencing other problems.

References

Arboriculture: The Management of Trees, Vines, and Shrubs. Harris, R.W. Prentice Hall, New Jersey. 1992.
The Simple Act of Planting a Tree. Lipkis, A. Jeremy P. Tarcher, Inc., Los Angeles. 1990.
"New Tree Planting," International Society of Arboriculture, http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/tree_planting.aspx.

Mushrooms in Landscapes

noreply@blogger.com (Rachel) — Mon, 03 Nov 2008 20:42:00 +0000

Mushrooms tend to pop up during moist conditions, alarming homeowners.

The questions we receive are:

Are they harmful to my children or pets?
Are they associated with a soil disease?
How do I get rid of them?

In most cases, the mushrooms are completely harmless. They are part of natural decomposition and can help benefit surrounding plants by releasing nutrients that have been unavailable in the soil.

There are two types of beneficial mushrooms:

Symbiotic – (Greater than 2 inches in diameter) a mutually beneficial relationship with other living plants. These help with the uptake of nutrients and water more efficiently, like mycorrhizae.

Saprophytic – (Less than 2 inches in diameter) living on dead organic matter. These release nutrients from decomposing material and can benefit surrounding plants by making them available.

There are several mushrooms from harmful fungi. Armillaria mellea is a root rot that has honey colored mushrooms (pictured below). This fungus is a naturally occurring in the Northwest. It is becoming more common in urban landscapes due to poor construction practices.

Another offender is fairy ring. This is common in lawns (pictured below). The mushrooms are visible in spring and summer. The only control method is removal of mushrooms when they appear to prevent the fungus from spreading. We recommend watering deeply and infrequently, along with moderate fertilizer application. Typically, fairy ring is not detrimental to lawn health.

To find out more

If you have a serious interest in mushrooms and fungus, a good field guide for the amateur mycologist is Mushrooms Demystified by David Arora. A good Northwest field guide is The New Savory Wild Mushroom by Margaret McKenny, Joseph F. Ammirati & Daniel E. Stuntz.
For photos of many different mushrooms, visit the Snohomish Mycological Society, www.scmsfungi. org/fotos.htm.

Reference

Mushrooms in Yards, http://gardening.wsu.edu/library/lpro006/ lpro006.htm.

Red Thread

noreply@blogger.com (Rachel) — Mon, 27 Oct 2008 16:19:00 +0000

Red thread is a common fungal disease in western Washington lawns.

It develops rapidly during cool, moist weather (between 50 and 60 degrees, fall through spring). Over-watering and light, drizzly rains foster development of the disease and make it more difficult to control. The disease spreads by rain, wind, mowers and other equipment.

Red thread disease is primarily cosmetic and rarely kills turf grasses. It can be effectively controlled by good lawn-care practices. It is not effective to use fungicides to treat red thread in western Washington.

Symptoms

Red thread generally appears as water-soaked, darkened patches varying from two inches to 24 inches or more. The leaves gradually become bleached or scorched-looking. The disease moves from leaf tips down the blade. When advanced, you can see fine fungal threads, pinkish to bright red, in bright light conditions.

What you can do

Keep mower blades sharp so they cut, rather than tear, the grass.
Red thread can be tracked from lawn to lawn. If you have a lawn mowing service, ask them to clean the mowers between lawns.
Review your watering procedures. Less frequent watering for longer periods is better. Keep the turf adequately watered in summer to maintain lawn health.

What In Harmony can do

Apply balanced fertilizer. A good fertilization program is critical in controlling red thread. We will increase fertilizer applications according to severity.
Apply liquid micronutrients to help strengthen lawn health.
Apply calcium to help with soil acidity and to help unlock available nutrients trapped in your soil.
Aerate the lawn to keep plants healthy and aid in nutrient uptake.

Moss

noreply@blogger.com (Rachel) — Mon, 20 Oct 2008 15:57:00 +0000

Moss is a very successful plant in the Pacific Northwest, due to our heavy moisture and compacted soils.

This makes it a tough competitor for grass plants in our lawns. Moss indicates poor growing conditions for grass, and is not a problem in itself. It usually means the lawn is too shady, wet, compacted or infertile. We can work with you to improve your lawn health and help reduce moss in your lawn. But moss will still grow in areas unsuited for good grass growth.

What In Harmony can do

Apply a moss control treatment. Iron is used to burn the moss, turning it black. The iron will not harm the grass or the environment.

What you can do

Rake out the moss, using a thatching rake, once it turns black. The dead moss will choke your lawn. If the moss is very thick, a thatching machine will make the work much easier.

Note on moss control

Attempts to control moss in fall and winter are counterproductive because temperatures are not warm enough for grass to fill in thin and bare areas. Areas where moss has been removed will remain bare or, more likely, grow more moss. We recommend waiting until early spring to remove moss.

If moss is a persistent problem, In Harmony can:

Renovate your lawn in spring or fall to correct the problems preventing healthy grass growth. Aeration, overseeding and fertilization will make your lawn healthier.
Install drainage or break up compacted soil to reduce moisture in soggy lawn areas.
Replace your lawn with groundcovers in areas where shade limits grass growth.

References

Moss in the Landscape: Friend or Foe? Robson, M. Washington State University Cooperative Extension. http://gardening. wsu.edu/column/10-08-00.htm November 11,2000.
Moss. Dickey, P. Pro IPM: Integrated Pest Management Solutions for the Landscaping Professional. 2000.

Caterpillars

noreply@blogger.com (Rachel) — Mon, 13 Oct 2008 20:02:00 +0000

Caterpillars are immature moths and butterflies.

Though caterpillars feed on plants and can chew irregular holes or entire leaves, they are primarily a nuisance rather than a serious threat to your plants. Healthy plants can handle some caterpillar damage. Many caterpillars are food sources for birds, and many adult moths help pollinate your plants.

Tent caterpillars are a common problem in western Washington. There are several types, all of which form large silken webs or “tents” in the foliage and branches of trees. Some species mature in fall and some in spring.

What you can do

Watch for tents in your trees. Early removal of tents minimizes damage and reduces the likelihood of the pest spreading to other branches or trees.
Remove the tents by hand; this is easiest in small trees. You can roll the tent out of the foliage, or cut out branches containing nests.
Call In Harmony to control the caterpillars for you.

What In Harmony can do

Remove the tents by hand for you.
Apply organic pesticides. In cases where infestation is severe, In Harmony may recommend treatment with pyrethrums, organic pesticides derived from chrysanthemums, to exterminate caterpillars. We take this action only when necessary because of two drawbacks:
While pyrethrums are safe, organic products that pose no long-term environmental harm, any pesticide is a poison and can harm people, animals, and desirable insects when contacted by direct spray or mist before they break down.
The treatment stops the caterpillars from eating your plants, but the unsightly nest remains in the tree until wind, rain, and time knock it down.

References

Tent Caterpillar. Pro IPM: Integrated Pest Management Solutions for the Landscape Professional, Green Gardening Program. Phillip Dickey.
Biology and Control of Tent Caterpillar. Washington State Cooperative Extension. Collman, S.A. and Antonelli, A.L. http://gardening.wsu.edu/library/inse003/inse003.htm, November 17,2000.
Pests of Landscape Trees and Shrubs: An Integrated Pest Management Guide. Dreistadt, S. ANR Publications, University of California, 1994.

Fall Leaves

noreply@blogger.com (Rachel) — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 15:57:00 +0000

Many trees provide a wondrous show in the fall, with leaves in hues of orange, red, brown and gold.

But once the show is over, those leaves can damage your lawn, so it's time to get out the rake.

What's the problem?

Leaves, especially wet leaves, can thin your lawn in a very short time. Fallen leaves prevent sunlight from reaching your turf. They smother the grass, preventing water from evaporating and eliminating air exchange. The combination of wet plants and low oxygen causes the grass to rot.

What you can do

Rake leaves off your lawn! Protect your investment. Leaves can quickly thin the lawn you have worked all year to thicken.
Rake or blow leaves at least once a week during peak leaf fall. Raking more frequently does not take much more time because frequent removal is much easier than waiting to remove all the leaves at once.
Compost your leaves or use as a mulch on garden beds. Add them to your compost pile or compost them separately. Large leaves will break down quicker if shredded, but will break down eventually if allowed time. Composted leaves make great soil amendments.
Leaves from any tree with a foliar disease, such as fruit trees, ornamental cherries and plums, or dogwoods with anthracnose. Disease spores can over-winter on fallen leaves, surviving the composting process and infecting your trees again in the spring.
Leaves of conifers and broad-leaf evergreens. They take a long time to compost.

References

Autumn Leaves and Their Virtues. Robson, M. Washington State University Cooperative Extension. http://gardening.wsu. edu/column/11-08-98.html November 17, 2000.
The Gardener's Guide to Plant Diseases. Pleasant, B. Story Books, 1995.

Evergreen Needle Drop

noreply@blogger.com (Rachel) — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 19:25:00 +0000

"Help! What is wrong with my cedar (or pine or fir)?! It's dropping its needles!"

Most frequently, the answer is "Nothing." This is a natural condition.

Every fall and especially after exceptionally dry summers, some evergreen trees, such as the western red cedar, experience what appears to be an alarming death of leaves or needles. Pines and other conifers suffer a similar, if less dramatic, fate.

What is happening? Despite their name, evergreen needles do not stay green forever. Older, inner leaves (needles) discolor and drop off after one or more years. Some plants shed their leaves slowly over the season; others lose large numbers in the fall.

What you can do

Here are a few things to help you determine if your tree's needle drop is a natural loss or if there is a problem of concern.

Observe the timing of leaf drop. Most conifers and evergreens will have their most significant leaf drop in the fall. Excessive leaf shedding in the spring or summer months may indicate a problem.
Check the pattern of leaf drop. Healthy trees drop only older leaves, those closest to the trunk away from the tip of a branch. If a whole side is dropping leaves or whole branches are turning brown, the plant may be suffering from a pest, disease or cultural problem.
Check the color of the newest leaves at the tips of branches. If the tips of needles or leaves are brown, the plant is drought stressed; this may explain the leaf drop.
If you are unsure about a plant's health, give In Harmony a call. Our technicians are trained to recognize natural needle drop and distinguish it from more alarming plant problems.

Reference

Landscape Plant Problems: A Pictorial Diagnostic Manual. Byther, R.S., Foss, C.R., Antonelli, A.L., Maleike, R.R., and Bobbitt, V.M. Washington State University Cooperative Extension, 2000.

Crane Flies

noreply@blogger.com (Rachel) — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 19:26:00 +0000

Western Washington lawns only have one insect pest—the crane fly— and that insect is seldom a problem.

A recent survey of almost 200 lawns in Whatcom County found that none had enough crane flies to require any pest controls.

Not all crane flies are pests. There are 12-14 native crane flies that are beneficial in streams and forests. Only the European crane fly, an imported species, causes any problems.

Many people think they have a crane fly problem when they see yellow or brown patches in the lawn. However, these symptoms may have many causes, such as drought stress, animal urine or mower scalping.

A healthy lawn will easily recover from crane fly damage, even when the population is high. A few crane flies do not mean that you have a problem.

WSU Extension does not consider any treatment until there are at least 25 to 30 crane flies per square foot of lawn. A weaker lawn may be more susceptible to crane fly damage. The best crane fly control is to improve lawn health through proper fertilization, mowing, watering and other care.

Lawns with poor drainage are of concern. Water protects the larvae and also weakens the turf by rotting the plant's roots.

What you can do

The best crane fly control is to improve lawn health through proper fertilization, mowing, watering and other care. A healthy lawn will easily recover from crane fly damage, even when the population is high.
Check for areas in the lawn with poor drainage. Talk to us about how to correct the problem.
Aerate your lawn to help the lawn roots take in air, water and nutrients. Ask us about seasonal aeration and fertilization.
Water your lawn deeply and infrequently. The crane fly likes very soggy soil, so drying out the soil will help reduce its numbers.
Attract birds. Many of them, especially starlings and robins, eat crane flies.
Monitor your lawn. If you see any strange change in your lawn, such as a thinning or major yellowing, please call us immediately. We will come out and take a look.

What In Harmony can do

As part of our lawn care program we can provide regular monitoring of your lawn for crane fly and take remedial action as necessary.

Reference

Crane Fly Pests of the Pacific Northwest, http://whatcom.wsu.edu/cranefly/

Lawn Fertilizers

noreply@blogger.com (Rachel) — Wed, 17 Sep 2008 16:08:00 +0000

There are three different types of lawn and garden fertilizers:

Synthetics

Organics

Bridge products

Synthetic fertilizers Synthetic fertilizers are manmade; they do not contain organic material. Unless formulated for slow-release, they are usually highly water-soluble. This can be both good and bad. The nutrients are available for quick absorption by plants, so your lawn greens up quickly. But rain or irrigation can leach extra nutrients (not absorbed by plants) into groundwater or wash them off into surface water. Also, synthetic fertilizers often have a high percentage of nitrogen, which may deplete the organic matter in the soil. Organic fertilizers Organic fertilizers are derived from plant and animal wastes and from natural minerals. They release nutrients slowly through microbial action, reducing harmful leaching. They also add benefi cial organic matter to the soil. This helps make nutrients more readily available and improves the retention and movement of water and air. Many of our lawns have poor soil with little organic material or available nutrients. These lawns tend to be pale and thin unless nutrients are added. Organic fertilizers provide both nutrients and essential organic matter to make the lawn healthier over time, but soil rejuvenation takes time. The lawn does not green up quickly as with synthetic fertilizers. But if organic matter is not added, the lawn will always need frequent applications of fertilizers. Bridge fertilizers Bridge products have elements of both organic and synthetic fertilizers. In Harmony uses bridge products to harness the environmental benefi ts of an organic fertilizer to the quick response of synthetic materials. Readily available nutrients from the synthetic component give a quick boost to lawns and improve their color, while the organic component adds essential organic matter and slowly releases nutrients to the soil. With the use of bridge products, In Harmony can develop a lawn's soil into a healthy system while improving its shortterm appearance. Most lawn fertilizers are formulated to supply the three primary nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) and sometimes include iron and magnesium. Calcium is added as part of a lime treatment to adjust soil acidity in the winter months. When micronutrients are defi cient in lawns, we apply a liquid formulation containing all of the micronutrients. References How to Choose and Use Organic Fertilizers—Natural Fuels. Reich, Lee. http://www.doityourself.com/garden/other/ naturalfuels.htm December 7, 2000. Organic Fertilizers. Washington State University Cooperative Extension. http://clallam.wsu.edu/waterquality/orgfert.htm December 7, 2000.
How Fertilizers and Plant Nutrients Affect Groundwater Quality. Stevens, R.G., Sullivan, D.M., and Cogger, C.G. http://www. cahe.wsu.edu/infoput/eb1722/eb1722.html December 7, 2000

Lawn Aeration and

noreply@blogger.com (erin) — Mon, 08 Sep 2008 18:42:00 +0000

Annual aeration and overseeding are important to keep your lawn green and healthy.

Aeration

Over time your soil naturally becomes compacted in the upper 1 to 1-1/2 inches and needs to be relieved by mechanical aeration. This process removes small cores 2 to 3 inches deep into the soil, which reduces compaction and improves the air, water and nutrient exchange in the roots.

Aeration stimulates root growth, improves the uptake of fertilizer and water, reduces water runoff and puddles, and enhances the lawn's tolerance for heat and drought stress.

Overseeding

Annual overseeding helps thicken your existing lawn. This helps the lawn ward against weed and moss encroachment.

Spring and fall weather conditions are ideal for overseeding because of the warm temperatures and cool air, which allows the seeds to grow without drying out. The seeds should show shoots in about 10 days if properly cared for.

What In Harmony can do

Aerate your lawn.
Overseed your lawn. In Harmony uses a premium seed blend selected for your lawn's environmental conditions.

What you can do

After the lawn is overseeded, it is very important to water your lawn so the seed will germinate. On warmer days, you might water it lightly twice. Watering should be done in order to keep the seed moist, not to drown the seed. If too much water is applied, the seed may rot. The seed will need supplemental watering for one to two weeks, depending on weather conditions.
Topdress bare or newly seeded areas with compost to ensure that seeds germinate and the grass gets established.
Don't mow your lawn for 7 to 10 days following overseeding. This helps ensure the seeds will not be damaged.
The fi rst time you mow after overseeding, raise the mower slightly so there is less strain on the new grass and its tender root system.

What to look for

Overseeding will not green up the lawn like a fertilizer does. The shoots are very small, so take a close look when you are examining the lawn for new growth. After the turf is established, you will see an overall thickening of the lawn.

Over time your soil naturally becomes compacted in the upper one to 1 ½ inches and needs to be relieved by mechanical aeration. This process removes small cores two to three inches deep into the soil, which reduces compaction and improves the air, water and nutrient exchange in the roots.

Aeration has a number of benefits for your lawn

Reduces soil compaction
Improves oxygen content
Stimulates root growth
Improves fertilizer uptake
Enhances water uptake
Reduces water runoff and puddles
Enhances heat and drought stress tolerance

Lace Bugs

noreply@blogger.com (erin) — Thu, 04 Sep 2008 20:38:00 +0000

Lace bug damage is not noticed until late in the summer.

The stippling causes yellow pinpoints in the leaves. When there is extensive damage, leaves appear yellow.

Note: Evergreen shrubs with lace bug damage now will show damage until leaves drop in two years.

Lace bug damage is distinguished from mite damage by dark specks of excrement on the underside of the leaves. Similar damage is caused by greenhouse thrips, so inspection is necessary to differentiate between the two. Lace bugs have lacelike wings, and thrips are diffi cult to see.

Females lay eggs partially into the plant tissue, hidden under excrement. Wingless nymphs are seen with the adults. There are several generations in a year. Adults overwinter under bark plates, making it diffi cult to have effective control in the dormant season. As soon as temperatures are favorable, we will begin monitoring for lace bug activity.

What you can do

Help increase plant vigor through proper irrigation and plant care. Stressed plants (e.g., from too much sun) are more likely to be damaged by lace bugs. A healthy plant will better resist insect damage.

What In Harmony can do

Apply horticultural oil. This is a highly refined petroleum oil which is effective at reducing lace bug populations. It is safe and has limited effects on benefi cial insects.

Reference
Pests of Landscape Trees and Shrubs, an Integrated Pest Management Guide. 1994. UC Publication 3359.

Tips for Automatic Irrigation Systems

noreply@blogger.com (erin) — Thu, 21 Aug 2008 20:07:00 +0000

Many people with irrigation systems actually use more water because they turn the system on and don't adjust it for seasonal changes.

Here's how to reduce your irrigation water use so you don't waste water.

Have your irrigation system serviced at least once a year to make sure it's working properly.
Don't set it and forget it - check your timer weekly. The weather changes all the time; so should the amount of water your system is producing.
Have a rain sensor installed. It will save huge amounts of water by shutting off the clock if it raining.
Check for broken, clogged or turned heads. Activity from kids and lawn mowers can damage heads and waste lots of water.
Check your plants for growth. Growing plants can cover up sprinkler patterns very quickly. If you don't prune the plant or move the sprinkler head, water will not be used efficiently.
Check lawns for grass that grows over underground sprinkler heads. We see more brown spots in lawns from this than any other situation.

Powdery Mildew

noreply@blogger.com (erin) — Tue, 12 Aug 2008 23:08:00 +0000

Powdery mildew is common on a wide range of plants in western Washington, including annuals, perennials, food crops and ornamental shrubs.

Our cool, humid weather creates ideal conditions for the disease. Powdery mildew does best when damp nights are followed by warm, sunny days, such as in late summer and fall.

On most landscape plants, powdery mildew looks like a fuzzy, whitish coating that resembles a thick coating of powder. On rhododendron, symptoms include spotted leaves, with brownishpurple or yellow spots on the underside and sometimes ring-shaped spots on the upper leaf surface.

What you can do

Choose disease-resistant plants or varieties. Many plants have cultivars bred to resist powdery mildew.
Prune out severely affected leaves when symptoms are present.
Prune your plants to increase air circulation.
Begin monitoring for powdery mildew symptoms
Be careful about where your plants are situated. Plants that are next to the house may get powdery mildew even if they are not prone to the disease.
Ask us for our Sanitation fact sheet.

Resistant rhododendron varieties
American Rhododendron Society,
www.rhododendron.org/performers2.htm

"Rhododendron Powdery Mildew," Mary Robson, WSU Cooperative Extension,
http://gardening.wsu.edu/column/06-11-00.htm